2008 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru

Bernard Billaud describes the 2009s as "fruity, ripe, open wines: a vintage of pleasure." Potential alcohol levels were a bit higher than those of 2008, but Billaud noted that he has not chaptalized any of his wines in recent years. I found that the higher alcohol levels give these wines a warmer character than the 2008s, but then the same thing can be said about the 2009 vintage at many of the estates I visited in June. Billaud described 2007 and 2002 (!) as "rigorous, incisive, academic, classic" vintages and left little doubt that he prefers more austere, mineral-driven vintages. (Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA) Also recommended: 2008 Petit Chablis (86).