2007 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru
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It remains to be seen how ongoing differences-generational and philosophical-between Bernard Billaud and his nephew Samuel Billaud will be resolved. The matter appears to be headed for arbitration and the split-up of the domain is a distinct possibility. Among the points of disagreement here in a couple recent vintages have been the selection of the harvesting dates: my own feeling is that Billaud-Simon picked too late in 2006 to make wines in the classically brisk style of this producer but did a better job in 2007. Some of the 2006s are rich and satisfying but show a distinctly exotic, honeyed cast. Tasting the 2007s at the end of May was a bit of an adventure, as several of the wines were in full malo and a couple were not in a condition to taste.
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