2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
France
Clos Des Lambrays
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2025 - 2040
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2024 - 2036
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As I noted in my report on the 2013s, Thierry Brouin characterized 2012 as "a great pinot year," which is not to say that it's an outstanding vintage of terroir. In fact, he told me, in early blind tastings he had trouble recognizing the Clos des Lambrays. The 2012 growing season, said Brouin, featured a bad flowering, some hail damage, mildew on the grape bunches, oidium and some sunburned grapes--"everything except rot."
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2018 - 2032
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Thierry Brouin's 2012s are magnificent. What about yields? Down an alarming 60% on average. Poor weather during flowering and mildew were devastating. Brouin added that in his view Morey was hit especially hard with both mildew and oidium. Judging by these three gorgeous, highly expressive wines, the little fruit that came in must have been healthy. Once again I left an appointment, this time the last of the day, both inspired by the quality of the wines and stunned by the stark economic reality of the 2012 vintage.
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Thierry Brouin told me he carried out a "gray harvest" to get rid of oidium-affected fruit 12 days before the 2012 harvest, and ultimately made 56% less wine than average.With just the best and ripest grapes used in 2012, the Clos des Lambrays will go into bottle with 14.5% alcohol, a record here.The wines still need more elevage to refine their tannins, said Brouin, who planned to rack them into large vats in January and then bottle in March."It's one of my best vintages in the last 20 years," Brouin told me, "but the wines may be a bit too rich and ripe to really communicate their terroir.The 2011s may be more transparent to site."Brouin does five or six punchdowns daily during the peak period of the fermentation.
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