2003 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

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Terry Brouin began harvesting on September 22 in 2004, two days before the official start to the harvest, removing unripe berries and clusters on the sorting table. Only the older vines (30+ years) will be used for the estate's grand cru, according to Brouin, who says 2004 is "like 2001 in structure and like 2000 in perfume. "The stems were ripe, so there was no reason to destem, he added. The malos went quickly here, but Brouin kept most of the fine lees following the first racking. Brouin compared the superripe 2003 to the '99 and '90 vintages made at this estate. "I like 2003 very much, but I wouldn't want to make a vintage like this every year. "(Brouin also showed me his 2004 white wines this year, and the taut and minerally but seamless Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret is a standout, rating 93 points. )

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Terry Brouin chilled the fruit with carbonic snow in 2003 to forestall the beginning of fermentation by four or five days.He did a vendange entier, with a shorter maceration than usual but five or six punchdowns per day during the peak of fermentation.The malos finished by the beginning of February, at which point the wines were racked, but they were still on their fine lees in November. Brouin told me he originally envisioned an early bottling, but was in the process of changing his mind.

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