2010 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

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Domaine des Lambrays's 2010s are outstanding. Yields were down approximately 30% mostly because of the irregular flowering, recounts estate manager Thierry Brouin. The Morey villages was made from entirely destemmed fruit, while the Loups and Clos des Lambrays were vinified with 100% whole bunches. The wine saw approximately 15 days of cuvaison with 5-6 pigeages a day. The wines were chaptalized a little less than one degree.

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I heard a story from a grower in Morey-Saint-Denis about a well-heeled but inexperienced wine drinker who went into a wine shop in Paris seeking to buy six bottles of Clos des Lambrays and six bottles of Clos de Tart. The merchant informed him that the price of the Clos des Lambrays was 90 euros, and the Clos de Tart was 300. "In that case," said the consumer, "give me 12 bottles of the Clos de Tart." That's a pretty good illustration of what's going on around the world these days with top Burgundy grand crus, with relative neophytes frequently believing that if the wine is not wildly expensive it can't possibly be very good. But the price difference between these two distinctive Morey-Saint-Denis bottlings has rarely been justified, and 2010 looks to be a strong vintage here. Thierry Brouin began harvesting on September 22, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol in the 11.8% to 12.5% range, with the average yield just 25 hectoliters per hectare owing to difficult conditions during the flowering. He told me he does "a lot of pigeages" during the tumultuous first several days of the fermentations.

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