2015 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

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I tasted in January with long-time estate manager Thierry Brouin, who will be retiring this spring, and his successor Boris Champy, who hails from Champagne but spent the early part of his career working for the Moueix family in Bordeaux and Napa Valley (Champy was the winemaker at Dominus Estate from 1997 to 2007) and since then had served as technical director for Domaine Louis Latour in Aloxe-Corton. Champy, who started here in June of 2017, finds that the estate’s 2015s have more grip than their ’16s, as well as slightly lower pHs. He believes that 2016 will be easier to drink early. Clos des Lambrays had very good yields in ’16, said Champy, with just a bit of frost in some village vines located just below the forest. Brouin expressed the opinion that 2016 would be for drinking before 2015, "just as ’06 is more accessible at this stage than ’05."

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Thierry Brouin, who is in the midst of interviewing candidates to succeed him at Clos des Lambrays after his impending retirement, told me that “the main characteristic of 2015 is energy.” He began the harvest early, on September 3, and carried out his normal fermentations, which includes doing a total of five punchdowns during the first six days. The malos finished early, by the end of December of ’15, and the wines were racked in March. At the time of my December tasting they were a bit tight and in need of breathing; Brouin expected to bottle them in March. Incidentally, Domaine des Lambrays produced an average of 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2015, or about 10% less than in 2014. But the estate had a good crop in 2016, said Brouin, as the village of Morey-Saint-Denis was “completely spared by the frost.”

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