2004 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

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2018 - 2022

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Thierry Brouin noted that this property should be considered an archetypical Morey-Saint-Denis because it lies in the center of the village at the end of a small combe (a notch in the hills to the west). "Never red berries here, only blackberry and blueberry," he noted. Brouin pointed out a couple of key differences between Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart. For starters, Brouin leaves eight clusters per vine, vs. five or six for Clos de Tart. He also generally picks five or six days earlier, despite having larger crop levels, with the result that grape sugars are more moderate. In 2005 he did a bit of chaptalization (potential alcohol was in the 12.5% to 13% range), no cold soak and no heating of the must at the end of the fermentation. He vinified only whole clusters, and carried out five punch-downs per day, with the cuvaison lasting two weeks. All of the young-vines juice in the Clos was declassified into the premier cru Les Loups. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA) Also recommended: Morey-Saint-Denis (86).

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Terry Brouin began harvesting on September 22 in 2004, two days before the official start to the harvest, removing unripe berries and clusters on the sorting table. Only the older vines (30+ years) will be used for the estate's grand cru, according to Brouin, who says 2004 is "like 2001 in structure and like 2000 in perfume. "The stems were ripe, so there was no reason to destem, he added. The malos went quickly here, but Brouin kept most of the fine lees following the first racking. Brouin compared the superripe 2003 to the '99 and '90 vintages made at this estate. "I like 2003 very much, but I wouldn't want to make a vintage like this every year. "(Brouin also showed me his 2004 white wines this year, and the taut and minerally but seamless Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret is a standout, rating 93 points. )

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