2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

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Estate manager Thierry Brouin finds the 2013 Clos des Lambrays more elegant than the 2014. He did a shorter maceration than usual. Brouin destemmed his village fruit entirely (the grand cru is still made entirely with whole clusters), with the fermentation taking place in a revolving vat.

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The harvest here began on October 3, the earliest in 25 years, said estate manager Thierry Brouin. The team eliminated "about 1% green grapes" at harvest-time, said Brouin, and also made about 20 hectoliters of rose from the less-ripe grapes. The result was a potential alcohol level of 12.8% after the selection, according to Brouin. Total maceration time was held to two weeks "as we neded to get the wines off their skins and stems quickly" (the 2013s were vinified with 100% whole clusters). "Two thousand twelve is a great Pinot Noir vintage," said Brouhin, "but 2013 really shows the character of the clos." Brouin expected to rack the 2013s into vats by the end of December (they finished their malos last January) and then bottle them in late February or early March. Long-time fans of the Clos des Lambrays, which has always been very different from the higher-alcohol, later-harvested and considerably more expensive Clos de Tart, will be happy to know that Brouin has agreed to stay on for at least three more years following the sale of the Domaine des Lambrays to LVMH in April of 2014.

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