1999 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
France
Clos Des Lambrays
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2027
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2020 - 2037
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
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Grape sugars in 2000 were the highest yet recorded in the Clos des Lambrays, according to manager Thierry Brouin. The crop load was high but a good 10% lower than that of 1999, Brouin told me. The 2000s here are outsized and sweet, with a full-blown wild fruit character; they reminded me of the more successful 1997s.
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Manager Thierry Brouin told me that 1999 was the first year in which the estate did a full-scale green harvest. "And there was further selection on our triage table," he added. The yield was a copious 45 hectoliters per hectare for the Clos des Lambrays (compared to just 28 in 1998), but with potential alcohol ranging as high as 12.9%. Brouin removed about 15% of the stems in order to have enough room in the cuves to vinify this huge crop, then did a shorter maceration with less pigeage the color came quickly, said Brouin, and he didn't want too much extraction.
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