2009 Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2038
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2019 - 2049
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This is a beautiful set of wines from Jean-Louis Trapet. The estate farms their vineyards biodynamically. After fermentation the wines are kept in a cold part of the cellar to delay the malolactic fermentations. When I visited in March 2011, the 2010s had not even begun their malos. In 2009 the harvest started on September 18. The wines spent about 18 days on the skins prior to being racked into barrel, where they stayed on their lees with no rackings until they were bottled with no fining or filtration. The amount of whole clusters ranged from 30% to 60%, while the use of new barrels ranged from 30% to 50%. The 2009s were bottled in February 2011, four to six weeks earlier than normal. Trapet is among the growers who believe The 2009s will not shut down in bottle. I was also quite taken with the selection of 2008s I tasted. Burgundy fans will find much to admire in both vintages. The house style tends towards the firm, classic end of the spectrum, so a measure of patience is required, even for The 2009s.
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Jean-Louis Trapet harvested quite late in 2009. "The challenge was to have phenolic maturity, not just good sugar ripeness," he maintained. "Of course the risk was that we could have lost acidity. But organic farming seems to preserve tension even in wines with higher pHs. The fruits in 2009 are more red than black." A significant percentage of whole-cluster vinification (about one-third in most wines, but 60% in the Capita) contributed further energy to the wines. Trapet believes that the tannins in the 2009s are suppler than those of 1990. He describes the new vintage as "a bit like 1989, but more complex." The malos here were early, finishing between January and March, as a result of which the wines were quite expressive in November.
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