2008 Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2021 - 2037
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2023 - 2048
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This is a beautiful set of wines from Jean-Louis Trapet. The estate farms their vineyards biodynamically. After fermentation the wines are kept in a cold part of the cellar to delay the malolactic fermentations. When I visited in March 2011, the 2010s had not even begun their malos. In 2009 the harvest started on September 18. The wines spent about 18 days on the skins prior to being racked into barrel, where they stayed on their lees with no rackings until they were bottled with no fining or filtration. The amount of whole clusters ranged from 30% to 60%, while the use of new barrels ranged from 30% to 50%. The 2009s were bottled in February 2011, four to six weeks earlier than normal. Trapet is among the growers who believe The 2009s will not shut down in bottle. I was also quite taken with the selection of 2008s I tasted. Burgundy fans will find much to admire in both vintages. The house style tends towards the firm, classic end of the spectrum, so a measure of patience is required, even for The 2009s.
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Also recommended: 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin (86).
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"A very Burgundy vintage," said Jean-Louis Trapet about 2008, by which I assume he meant that it was a miserable summer. As the size of the crop was reduced by millerandage, Trapet did not carry out a green harvest, but he did a severe selection at harvest time. He started picking on September 29 with grape sugars reaching 12.5% and with good tannic ripeness. (In contrast, he told me, the tannins were not ripe at the same sugar levels in the warmer growing season of 2009, and that's why he waited longer than many of his neighbors did to pick.) Trapet chaptalized most of his 2008s, but did not add sugar in 2009 or 2007. The top 2007 cuvees here have turned out splendidly, by the way. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL and Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA)
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