1999 Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2045
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2021 - 2037
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
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In 2000, for the first time, Jean-Louis Trapet used a table de trie with holes in it to enable the excess water to drain off the fruit. He has also been picking with smaller baskets since '99, which results in less breakage of grape skins and therefore less incipient oxidation. Trapet punched down more gently to privilege purity of fruit and minerality over sheer concentration in 2000. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; T. Edwards Wines, New York, NY; and Fine Vines, Maywood, IL)
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Jean-Louis Trapet has been farming his grapes increasingly biodynamically for the past three years, and he used only copper sprays and orties(a brew of nettles) to protect against mildew in '99. "The bio methods bring earlier ripeness, more energy, more minerality, but with firmer acidity," Trapet told me. Still, in '99 he picked on the late side, after a period of rain, saying that he was fooled by a weather report that predicted dry weather. The premier crus were actually harvested under better conditions than the grand crus, he added, although average yields for the latter wines were in the reasonable-for-the-vintage 43 hectoliters-per-hectare range. Like nearby domains such as Dujac and Perrot-Minot, Trapet used a helicopter to dry his grapes. The '99 crus had not yet been racked in November, but Trapet had injected a bit of SO2 into the wines' lees just a couple of months prior to my November visit to keep them fresh. Trapet told me that he hoped to make the 2000 wines completely without SO2 "in order to stay as close as possible to the grapes." I hope this approach does not prove too extreme. I am reminded of the story of the farmer who tried, gradually, to train his horse to survive on no food at all. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; and Fine Vines, Maywood, IL)
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