1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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This wine was tasted in the Kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in March 2011
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By chilling the grapes to 10 degrees C, Vincent Geantet was able to carry out his normal cold maceration for more than a week following the 1997 harvest, doing two pigeages per day through this period. The fermentation then occurred in about six days at a temperature reaching as high as 36 degrees with three or four pigeages during these days. Afterwards, as he usually does, Geantet immediately took the wines off their skins. The result of this approach is a set of deeply colored, silky, fruit-driven wines free of hard tannins. Perhaps due to the fact that the '97s had been bottled just a week before my November visit, I found a rustic aspect to a number of these wines, with the ripeness and low acidity of the vintage more apparent than specific vineyard character. But they are impressively rich. Geantet '96s, on the other hand, are as impressive and aromatically complex a set of wines as I've tasted from this grower.
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This was the only address at which I tasted the full range of '96s from bottle in early November. Vincent Geantet, who seeks deep color, strong fruitiness and silky texture in his Burgundies, bottled his '96s in October to "trap" their fruit. Techniques utilized here include a long cold maceration prior to fermentation (by chilling but only minimally sulfuring the must) and the inclusion of a sizable percentage of uncrushed berries in the fermenter. Happily, thanks to controlled yields and strong raw materials, these wines have more to them than most Burgundies vinified to offer early appeal. Geantet describes his '96s as having stronger acid on the attack and more finesse than his '95s. Yet he feels that, beginning with the Gevrey vieilles vignes they are also every bit as dense as the earlier set of wines.
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