2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino
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2020 - 2045
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2025 - 2055
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Two thousand five is an interesting vintage at Giacomo Conterno because the Cascina Francia and Monfortino are so far apart stylistically. In many vintages - 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2006 and 2008 come to mind - there is a thread that connects the two Barolos, while in other years the wines are completely different. That is very much the case in 2005, where Cascina Francia is quite delicate while Monfortino is a tannic powerhouse. Roberto Conterno also opened his 2005 Barbera to help calibrate palates after a tasting of younger wines from barrel.
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2020 - 2045
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
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2020 - 2040
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A stop at this historic cellar in the center of Monforte is always fascinating, as no one keeps Barolo longer in cask than Roberto Conterno, giving the visitor a chance to taste numerous wines all in various stages of their maturation. If forced to pick a favorite recent vintage, I would vote for 2010, a year in which all of the wines are fabulous. Next would be 2008 and 2006, two super-classic years. Robero Conterno is by far the most enlightened of the traditional producers in Barolo. I don't think too many producers taste their wines as often as Roberto Conterno does, but what really separates Conterno from the overwhelming majority of his peers is his intense intellectual curiosity about the world's great wines. The Conterno wines remain generally traditional in interpretation, but they are also clearly the work of a winemaker living in his time and not the past. This set of new releases is full of highlights, but the Barbera from Conterno's Cerretta vineyard is particularly of note because it is the most improved wine in the lineup. When Conterno purchased this plot in 2008, he told me it would take 2-3 years to get the vineyard into top shape. When I asked him recently where he was in that process, the answer was, “Ninety percent.” Readers should note that the two flagship Baroli, Cascina Francia and Monfortino, were especially shut down every time I tasted them this past summer. Conterno bottled a month earlier than normal this year, and I think that is the reason the wines were particularly impenetrable. Readers may also want to take a look at my previous reviews, based on barrel samples, for greater context.
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2025 - 2045
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Roberto Conterno's 2008s capture the best qualities of the vintage. They are intensely perfumed and impeccably refined. These will be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years. As for the rest of the wines in cask, they are pretty spectacular, too. Today I am most optimistic about the 2010s, but there seems to be no shortage of great wines aging in this historic cellar. Readers who want to get an early impression on 2010 will want to check out Conterno's Barbere, which are shaping up beautifully.
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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
Imports to: United States
Address: 19 N Moger Ave, Mt Kisco, NY 10549
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Imports to: United States
Address: 280 Valley Drive, Brisbane, CA 94005
Phone: (415) 319-9000
Email: sales@rarewineco.com
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