2006 Barolo Riserva Monfortino

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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.

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I have had many superb tastings at Giacomo Conterno over the years, but the most recent was arguably the most special. Following Conterno's Barolos from barrel, into bottle and then over the years as they age is a fabulous experience. Roberto Conterno has done a fabulous job with his new releases, but there are plenty of other emotional, riveting wines aging in the cellar as well. Conterno's attention to detail is equaled by few, if any, other producers in Piedmont. Bringing cork selection and printing in house is just the latest development in an approach that starts in the vineyard and finishes in one of the most pristine, immaculate cellars readers will see anywhere in the world.

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It is always so quiet at Conterno. Like a cathedral. Nothing is out of place. Roberto Conterno once told me his late father would walk throughout the cellar and make sure all of the casks were perfectly inline. It is that unreleting drive for excellence that has produced so many extraordinary wines here over the years. A tasting at Conterno is always a great education, but things have gotten even more interesting over the last few years with the addition of the Barbera and soon-to-be Barolo from Cerretta. Both those wines continue to grow with each passing year. The highlight among these upcoming releases is surely the 2006 Monfortino.

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It's always an interesting experience tasting with Roberto Conterno, as his take on recent vintages does not necessarily track that of his colleagues. Conterno views 2008 as a unique year. "We picked late but the wines are fruity more than minerally," he said. In quantity of tannins, he went on, the 2008s are lower than 2009 but higher than 2007. "The most tannic recent vintages for us were 2010, 2006 and 2002." Conterno compares 2009 to 2007 but with a bit more acidity. There will be no 2007 Monfortino, as this cuvee was not rich enough in tannins or sufficiently powerful. Needless to say, the Cascina Francia, Conterno's only Barolo in '07, is an outperformer. In September, Conterno had not yet decided if there would be a Monfortino in 2009.

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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)

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