2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino

Roberto Conterno showed me a wide range of wines during my most recent visit. Conterno shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, it is quite the opposite; the pace of innovation has never been faster. Work on an expansion to the Monforte cellar is slated to begin shortly. At Nervi, the renovated winery melds tradition with innovation to a degree that is breathtaking. As if that were not enough, Nervi now boasts a world-class restaurant, with a wine list to boot. In terms of the wines, the 2017 Barolos are unbelievably elegant and refined. They are also incredibly expressive of site. The 2015 Monfortino, the first to include fruit from Arione, is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. I also tasted the 2018 Gattinaras from Nervi. They are exceptional. A little bird told you.

Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.