2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino

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2029 - 2054

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2026 - 2065

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Roberto Conterno's 2016 Barolos offer fascinating insights into the personalities of three Serralunga crus, Cerretta before the center of town and then Francia and Arione, which are neighbors, on the other side of the village heading towards Monforte. One of the most intriguing aspects of the Conterno winery is that the wines don't always fall into the general beliefs about the overall quality of a given vintage. For example, in both 2014 and 2002, Conterno only bottled his flagship Barolo Monfortino - quite a statement in years that were so challenging elsewhere, but the wines clearly merited that treatment. (Readers with longer memories will remember the exceptional Monfortino of 1987). In 2016, Conterno decided against bottling Monfortino and has long maintained a view that for his wines, 2015 is superior to 2016. I suppose time will ultimately tell. The bottled 2016s are terrific, but they are also a bit more severe (specifically the Francia and Arione) than readers have come to expect in recent vintages. It will be interesting to see how the wines develop in bottle.

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2024 - 2064

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Roberto Conterno debuts his new Barolo from Arione with the 2015, and it is a stunner, just as it was from barrel. The 2013 and 2014 Monfortinos are both magnificent. Interestingly, both were bottled with five years in cask followed by a year in bottle before release, which is less time in cask and more in bottle than in the past, a response to changes in climate, as well as a desire to released Monfortino with a bit of time in bottle. In both 2013 and 2014, Conterno bottled the entirety of his production from Francia as Monfortino, so there is no Barolo Francia in either vintage. Roberto Conterno’s relentless quest for perfection and remarkable attention to even the seemingly smallest detail comes through in these breathtaking, captivating Barolos.

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Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.

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Roberto Conterno's 2014 Barolos have been thrilling since I first started tasting them a few years ago. Two thousand fourteen is the first vintage Conterno made with his new state-of-the-art destemmer. If there was a vintage that could have benefited from a little more selection in the cellar, 2014 was certainly it. As he has done a few times now, Conterno decided not to bottle his Barolo Cascina Francia and instead used all of the fruit for his flagship Monfortino. The 2015 Barberas are also noteworthy, and well worth your time.

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