2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino

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2025 - 2053

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2023 - 2063

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Roberto Conterno debuts his new Barolo from Arione with the 2015, and it is a stunner, just as it was from barrel. The 2013 and 2014 Monfortinos are both magnificent. Interestingly, both were bottled with five years in cask followed by a year in bottle before release, which is less time in cask and more in bottle than in the past, a response to changes in climate, as well as a desire to released Monfortino with a bit of time in bottle. In both 2013 and 2014, Conterno bottled the entirety of his production from Francia as Monfortino, so there is no Barolo Francia in either vintage. Roberto Conterno’s relentless quest for perfection and remarkable attention to even the seemingly smallest detail comes through in these breathtaking, captivating Barolos.

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2025 - 2053

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Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.

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2025 - 2063

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What defines excellence? So often it comes down to a willingness to do things others won't. That pretty much sums up what Roberto Conterno has done at his family's estate since assuming full control of the winery upon the passing of his father, Giovanni, in 2004. Readers who have visited the winery have seen the state of the art bottling line, the new destemmer and the new casks. But I won't bore readers with the details because at this level, wine has to be about emotion. And Conterno's 2013s deliver plenty of that. Above all else, these are Barolos of total and exquisite finesse. Conterno's wines are not inexpensive, that much is obvious, but I also can't remember the last time I was disappointed by a Conterno Barolo. Readers who can find the 2013s should not hesitate, as they are regal in every way.

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Roberto Conterno's 2013 Barolos are fascinating in the way they have developed over the last year. The Cerretta seems to be gaining in power, while the Monfortino has become much more refined than it was at the outset. In 2013, Conterno decided to bottle the entire production from the Francia vineyard as Monfortino, which means there will be no Barolo Francia, only the second time in the estate's history that the winery has bottled Monfortino but not Francia (the first was 2002). As good as the 2013s are - and they are both shaping up to be profound - Roberto Conterno has a number of even better wines in the cellar.

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