2007 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

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Dauvissat described the 2008s as "elegant wines, with very well-integrated acidity, like good 2002s, but they were difficult to make." They were in full malolactic fermentation and thus impossible to taste at the time of my visit. Dauvissat compared 2007 to 2004 in balance but pointed out that the crop levels were lower in 2007. I should note that except for the Petit Chablis and the Preuses, I tasted the wines brought in by Vineyard Brands, which are typically bottled a few months earlier than those shipped under the Dauvissat-Camus label. Incidentally, Dauvissat opened an impossibly youthful, even slightly hard-edged, bottle of 1996 La Forest, which still needed a bit more aging. He noted that this wine weighed in at 14.5% alcohol, and was carrying a very high 5.5 grams of acidity. Once again, I was struck by the realization that there are basically two kinds of 1996 white Burgundies: those that are prematurely oxidized and those that are still too young. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; the Dauvissat-Camus label is imported by Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA)

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"Unexpected" was Dauvissat's one-word description for his 2007s. "Just a few weeks before the harvest we could not have hoped for this level of quality." Dauvissat picked between September 11 and 21, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 12% and 12.5% and chaptalizing some wines about a half-degree. "We benefited from a lot of concentration in the last days before the harvest but did not lose acidity." The malos finished a bit later than usual, in February, and the wines were racked and assembled in March. Dauvissat's two grand crus were among the stars of the vintage. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; the Dauvissat-Camus label is imported by Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA)

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