2006 Tertre-Rôteboeuf
France
Bordeaux
Red
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2018 - 2033
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Two thousand seven was a very difficult climate for the grape vine, and harvesting at the right moment was tricky, said Francois Mitjavile. "The challenge was to get true maturity," he began. "Lots of wines have charming, primary aromas that are not too ripe, but this type of wine could not be extracted without getting rough tannins. And at the other extreme, people who picked their merlot too late found that their fruit lost its fruit: that is, part of the fruit lost its aromatic expression and faded away. But ideally ripe fruit in 2007 has real dynamism." Mitjavile picked his amphitheater vineyard in three days flat, beginning on October 8. And he credited his wife and daughter with helping him harvest at the right time. "They came to me on a Sunday and said 'you must come and taste the grapes.' I was not planning to start picking yet, but I tasted the grapes and they were right. We started harvesting the next day." Incidentally, Mitjavile has never made a second wine at this estate, so what he sees is what you get. "The character of the vintage is very strong here because there is no selection," he pointed out.
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Francois Mitjavile prizes 2006 for its combination of freshness and ripeness. He compared the new vintage to 1996, but believes that the better 2006s are riper and more gracious wines that will blossom more fully than the earlier vintage. "July here was terribly dry, and the conditions built small grapes. At that point we were expecting a very early harvest. But then the rains in September resulted in a very quick spread of rot in certain areas, and picking at the right time was crucial. This season brought the biggest crop of mushrooms all over France in my lifetime." Once again, I was struck by how distinctive Mitjavile's wines are, his Roc de Cambes (a property in the Cotes de Bourg) as well as the Tertre Roteboeuf: with their exotic, liqueur-like sweetness, creaminess of texture and pronounced torrefaction qualities, they stand out from virtually all the other wines I taste each year in Bordeaux. Mitjavile emphasizes that he makes "very worked wines" of elevage: typically they are racked a good nine times before they are bottled.