2000 Tertre-Rôteboeuf
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"Both 2002 and 2001 were late harvests, and late harvests are never the greatest years," said Francois Mitjavile. "But on the best sites in what is essentially a northerly climate late harvests can give great ripeness and fruit complexity. And of course the best terroirs are also better able to withstand drought and ripen their fruit. The last ten days of dry weather in 2002 helped to concentrate the fruit, even if there was not a lot of photosynthesis happening." Mitjavile describes his young 2002 as a particularly vibrant wine ("the alcohol is 14.3% but you'd never know it"), the 2001 as a bit more confiture, with less intense fruit. Both vintages brought small crops here.
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Francois Mitjavile described 2001 as a "temperate, very normal growing season, featuring more regular photosynthesis than that which occurred in 2000. It was necessary to pick late in order to avoid making acid or hard wines. The character of the vintage is more red fruit than black." Beginning with 2001, Mitjavile has a new device that enables him to do gentler pumpovers ("the device puts a large mass of juice on the cap without breaking it,"), as well as a new rotating press that allows him to retain a higher percentage of solids as the wine goes into barrel. Mitjavile emphasized that the point of his elevage is to produce wine that's more evolved at the time of bottling. He generally separates the wine from its lees at the first racking in November. He may add back the lees later, "but that would be reductive, and I would rather have an oxidative development in barrel." Not surprisingly, my experience has been that Le Tertre Roteboeuf is often flamboyantly expressive in its youth and best suited for mid-term consumption.
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"Those who describe right-bank wines in terms of underripe/overripe are wrong," says Francois Mitjavile. "Ripening is never perfect and we need the full range of flavors: the fresher, dynamic flavors of red fruits and the deeper, more opulent licorice and cocoa notes." In 2000, which featured a tiny crop here and at his Cotes de Bourg property Roc de Cambes, "the vines used their reserves of water to develop fresher-than-normal aromas for the vintage, despite all the sun." Mitjavile did not harvest especially late in 2000. "I don't look for surmaturite," he insisted. "But I do pick very late in difficult years when the fruit really struggles to ripen. It an error to harvest with rude, rustic tannins."
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