Sancerre: Combat Fatigue

BY REBECCA GIBB MW | AUGUST 06, 2024

On the first morning of the long summer holidays, the residents of Sancerre awoke to the sound of thunder and the gathering of black storm clouds. In the first half of 2024, the Sancerrois barely had time for their rain jackets to dry before being hurriedly put back on. By the start of July, the sun had failed to make a worthwhile appearance, and the demands of the vineyards were visible on the drawn faces, the unshaven look very much in vogue. Mildew ran rampant, with signs of rot as well as coulure and no respite, particularly for the growing body of organic growers in the appellation. If summer arrived in time, it could still be a good vintage, but there won’t be much of it. You might say it’s lucky that it comes hot on the heels of one of the biggest vintages on record.

Between the rains, the sun shines over the hilltop town of Sancerre.

A Deeper Look at 2023

Two thousand twenty-three may be a “remarkable” year based on the volumes produced. The older generation can’t remember a time when quantity was accompanied by such quality, but that’s a rather kind assessment. Yes, there’s a lot of wine, but the quality is far more varied than we’ve seen in recent years, while 2022 is far more consistent. With so much fruit on the vine, maturity took longer to achieve.

It all started rather well with decent water reserves in the soil, no worrying frosts and good flowering. However, it wasn’t the easiest of seasons, with regular rains keeping the growers on their toes and out in the vineyard to maintain mildew and oidium under control. These challenges now seem child’s play compared with the 2024 season.

The run-in to harvest is always the most crucial time of the grape growers’ year. In 2023, the weather did not give an easy ride. A week-long heatwave from the 18-24 August, pushed some bunches to ripen, while the high temperatures blocked the process for others. It was a waiting game as the grapes edged to ripeness before another week-long heatwave hit the region between 6-13 September, accelerating maturation, increasing the grape sugars and prompting the start of the harvest for many. However, two storms arrived on 17 and 21 September, bringing rains that undid all the sun’s work. The rains diluted and swelled the berries, reducing the sugar content and the acidity levels while causing growers concerns over botrytis.

The result is that many wines in 2023 lack concentration, which is both a reflection of the gargantuan crop and the dilution caused by rainfall before harvest. Rain also lowered acidities; some wines lack the refreshment usually found here. Several producers reported an unexpected malolactic conversion, often during alcoholic fermentation, leading to softer acid profiles. At the lower-priced end of the Sancerre scale – which is high compared with the rest of the world’s Sauvignon Blanc – there’s been some overly enthusiastic use of CO2 at bottling. CO2 is added to provide vivacity and refreshment where it’s missing, leaving these young wines not just spritzy but almost sparkling. Time in bottle may help, but this effect is far more pronounced than I’ve observed before. Gone are the ripe stone fruits of 2022, and it’s a not-unwelcome return to a fresher aromatic profile of Sauvignon Blanc with apple and pears joined by elderflower and boxwood; there’s even a minty thread through the vintage.