Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn

BY REBECCA GIBB MW | JANUARY 30, 2024

Saumur was the place to be at the end of 2023. The inauguration of Clos Rougeard’s new cellar finally took place after a five-month postponement, leading to yet more buzz around the cult producer now in the hands of telecommunication billionaires Martin and Olivier Bouygues—owners of an increasing portfolio of wine estates, including Bordeaux’s Château Montrose. Members of the trade that barely give the Loire Valley’s wines the time of day made the journey to Saumur. I toured the winery with new cellarmaster Cyril Chirouze several months earlier, and while the underground cellars remain largely untouched, there is now a sleek lift where you once had to venture down the stairs to reach the barrels. The revamped winery and reception area now exude the rich aroma of its luxury owners. It is still located on the same residential street in a forgettable village on the outskirts of Saumur. If it were not for the wines produced there, you would pass it without a second glance.

The vineyards of Saumur-Champigny are located south and east of the beautiful Château de Saumur.

But this is not a story of the changing of the guard at Clos Rougeard, nor is it about the desire-turned-devastation of Antoine Foucault, son of the late Charly, who hoped to be the next Foucault at Clos Rougeard but could not match the financial clout of the Bouygues. Instead, it is an opportunity to consider the wider wine scene in Saumur and the Loire red wine-producing community beyond. Does the rest of the area bathe in the reflected glow from Clos Rougeard’s mythical status, or does this domaine stand alone? Is its place in Saumur-Champigny and the Loire Valley incidental to those who seek out one of its red cuvées, whether that’s Le Clos, Les Poyeux or Le Bourg? 

The estate is certainly the source of the region's most coveted and expensive reds, but red wine lovers often ignore its birthplace. Beyond Loire Valley nerds, there is very little scratching of the surface, but if more people did bother, they’d find the limestone underlying these fine wines is a common thread in the best wines of not only Saumur-Champigny but also Chinon and Bourgueil. It is frustrating that sommeliers post self-aggrandizing photos of Clos Rougeard on social media. Ask some of them to name other top producers in the appellation and they’re left scrambling. It’s a constant surprise that so few have heard of names like Bernard Baudry, Domaine de Pallus, Domaine du Collier, Domaine du Bel Air and at least ten more. The handful of importers specializing in the Loire should be praised for spotting the talent on offer. Still, a problem of perception remains. Speaking to a Berry Bros. & Rudd buyer at their first-ever Loire tasting event in London, he explained that many of their prestige customers perceived the quality of the region’s wines to be lower because they were far cheaper than their equivalents in Burgundy or Bordeaux.