Sancerre Sees Red

BY REBECCA GIBB MW | DECEMBER 01, 2022

It has been less than a century since the authorities formalized the marriage of Sancerre and Sauvignon Blanc. Still, the variety’s dominant role in the area was far from assured before phylloxera. Sauvignon Blanc only started in 1898 to spread its roots with any vigor beyond its heartland of Chavignol. Chasselas was favored thanks to its abundant yields; white wines often contained a varying proportion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. However, until the destructive aphid forged a path to the central point along the Loire River’s course, red varieties, notably Gamay and Pinot Noir, covered a large swathe of Sancerre and its neighboring villages. According to Thibaut Boulay, a university professor and vigneron in Chavignol, it was common to find Gamay planted next to Pinot Noir to boost the wine’s color – he estimates a ratio of one Gamay vine for every 10 or 15 Pinot Noir vines. This served the region well. In the 19th century, French writers often praised its reds, and in 1800, the statistician Jacques Peuchet noted they “had the most in common with those of Burgundy.” And yet, reds were left out in the first appellation round in 1936. It took another 23 years for red wines and Rosés to gain the right to use the appellation name. Gamay was duly given its marching orders in 1959, and Pinot Noir became the only red variety permitted. Despite their historical importance, Sancerre reds are now often forgotten. Order a glass of Sancerre and in 99 cases out of 100, you’ll likely receive a dry, crisp, white wine. Sauvignon Blanc has become the dominant force in the appellation, accounting for 85% of its production, with reds representing 10% and Rosé just 5%.

The vineyards that lie to the east of Sancerre, towards the Loire river, sit on flint rather than clay and limestone.

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