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S & J.P. Agisson

Jean-Philippe Agisson continues to produce some of the most delicate, harmonious wines in the appellation. Agisson has an impressive CV – he remains the winemaker at Didier Dagueneau, having spent 12 years at Alphonse Mellot (2006-2018). In 2017, he launched his label, farming 1ha in Sancerre on Kimmeridgian soils. In 2020, he added a Pouilly-Fumé, La Belle Endormie, sourced from a 0.5ha plot on Portlandian soils. Tasting the barrel samples from the challenging 2023 vintage, Agisson pulls it out of the bag again, producing transparent styles with huge attention to detail being rewarded. Agisson picks comparatively early, yet the fruit and acids are ripe.

In 2023, Agisson produced a new cuvée, L’Éclat, which, at this stage, shows the fruit of young vines rather than the terroir. Grapes hail from a south-facing plot he planted in 2020 on flinty soils in the village of Saint-Satur (just below the hilltop town of Sancerre). This is one to watch. The domaine also makes a red Sancerre, which is delicate and floral. In 2022, it was made with 15% whole bunches, lending lift and structure. However, the whites remain the star attraction. In 2023 and 2024, Agisson also planted new Pinot Noir vines in his home village of Sury-en-Vaux and in the famous Chambrates vineyard.

From Sancerre: Combat Fatigue (Aug 2024) by Rebecca Gibb MW

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2023 Équilibre

Color: White

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