2008 Riesling Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp

Roman Niewodniczanski is hard to miss in a crowd. Athletically built and nearly seven feet tall, his long blond hair wags behind him in a pony tail as he sails into the room. His wines are equally hard to miss! Since he purchased the old van Volxem estate some ten years ago, he has extended its holdings to over 100 acres and put forgotten vineyard names back on the map. Some of his sites till sport 100-year-old vines planted on their original root stock; others are carefully selected genetic cuttings that he has chosen from old vineyard material to improve the region's genetic pool. Although consumers often still associate the Saar with delicately sweet spatlese, his full-bodied, off-dry style commands respect. And 2008 has taken quality here to a new level. As demand for dry riesling continues to mount, this is a style many estates are now trying to emulate, but no one is doing it better. In fact, given the stunning quality of these wines, you have to ask why the VDP has limited Grosses Gewachs to 9 grams per liter of residual sugar. Cartier would call these a "must." Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Schiefer (86), 2008 Riesling Rotschiefer (86), 2008 Saar Riesling (87), 2008 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling (88), 2008 Riesling Alte Reben (88), 2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling (90), 2008 Wawerner Goldberg Riesling (90), 2008 Scharzhofberg Riesling (90). (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR