2006 Riesling Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp

Although he has not yet reached his goal, Roman Niewodniczanski has taken the Von Volxem estate on a long journey since he acquired the property in 1999. Not only was he admitted into the ranks of Germany's elite producers (VDP) this year, he is now also beginning to win the admiration of many of his colleagues for his hedonistic, off-dry style of riesling that works well with food. His dedication to the vineyards paid off in 2006. The "1900," which comes from choice plots in estate vines that are more than 100 years old, crowns the vintage. No one on the Mosel other than Heymann-Lowenstein has taken the classical-some would say old-fashioned-style of German riesling to this level. Although in a completely different idiom, this estate may soon rival Egon Muller for the sheer quality of its wines. (Ewald Moser Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2006 Schiefer Riesling (85), 2006 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling Trocken (85), 2006 Saar Riesling (86), 2006 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling (87), 2006 Riesling Volz (90), 2006 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese (91). Other wines tasted: 2006 Schiefer Riesling Feinherb.