2005 Riesling Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp
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Although Roman Niewodniczanski continues to raise the ire of some of his colleagues for his hedonistic, off-dry style of riesling, his refusal to use classical terms like kabinett and spatlese, and his resurrection of subplots within the vineyards, he has nonetheless mellowed with age. And his approach is beginning to garner a following, not because his wines knock out the top guns at blind tastings, but because he cultivates a style that works well with food. These rieslings, perhaps unusual with their 12% alcohol and similar doses of residual sugar, are all about dinner. (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Trocken (85), 2005 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling Trocken (87), 2005 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling (89+?), 2005 Riesling Alte Reben (88), 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (90). Other wines tasted: 2005 Riesling Rotschiefer.