2007 Riesling Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp

Roman Niewodniczanski has steered the Von Volxem estate from the remote backwaters into the front ranks of Germany's elite producers (VDP) in the barely ten years that he has owned it. Although many consumers still associate the Saar with delicate spatlese, his full-bodied, off-dry style no longer draws sneers. Quite the contrary, respect is the better word. Yes, the rieslings here are different, but the 2007s display an elegance not much seen before-and nothing else works so well in its youth with food. For those willing to try something new, these wines, with those of Heymann-Lowenstein, are as close to perfect in this style as any in Germany. Neither of the two like being placed in the off-dry category, certainly because it sounds less glamorous, but I was taught to call a spade a spade, and these are spades I highly recommend. (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2007 Riesling Schiefer (86), 2007 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling (88), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Rotschiefer (88), 2007 Riesling Alte Reben (88), 2007 Saar Riesling (89), 2007 Wawerner Goldberg Riesling (89), 2007 Scharzhofberg Riesling (89).