2013 Syrah BMT
United States
Santa Barbara County
California
Red
75% Syrah, 25% Grenache
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2017 - 2028
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Joey Tensley was traveling overseas when I stopped by, so I tasted the 2013s and 2014s with assistant winemaker Zac Wasserman. Both vintages are strong, but the 2014s have an extra kick of, well, pretty much everything. As always, Tensley's wines are big and richly textured, so they need time in bottle to be fully expressive.
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Joey Tensley has moved operations from the outskirts of Buellton to a larger and quieter facility close to his home and new vineyard in Los Olivos, thus making his life "a whole lot less hectic—okay, maybe a little bit less." Tensley told me that the heat of 2013 resulted in small berries and plenty of skin-to-juice ratio, "so the wines have the fruit tannins to age." Tensley makes significant use of whole-cluster vinification, by the way, which increases tannins and hence ageworthiness, or so says science. On the other hand, he pointed out, the warmth experienced in '13 also made for "plenty of upfront fruit, so you might be fooled into thinking that they're best for drinking young." The acidity levels of the vintage can be on the low side "but that's not the only way that a wine ages, especially syrah." Don't be surprised to see the '13s cruise easily into their tenth year and beyond, he predicts.
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