2019 Chardonnay Scherrer Vineyard

I was deeply impressed with this range from Fred Scherrer. All of the wines in this lineup are compelling, but the 2018 Pinots are especially fine. In a world in which the pace is continually accelerating, Scherrer stands out for his very contrarian approach. The Pinots, done with fully destemmed fruit, see three full winters in oak, with no racking, which is among the longest élevage regimes I know of in the United States. Similarly, the Chardonnays see two winters in barrel. Readers who appreciate structured, classically-built wines will adore these new releases. I will not be surprised if Fred Scherrer becomes the next cult producer in Sonoma. His wines check all the right boxes, and yet pricing remains beyond reasonable.