2014 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin

Paitin seems to be going through a state of evolution following the departure of consulting winemaker Dante Scaglione and the arrival of Pietro Ballario. The 2014 Barbarescos come across as austere, compact and lacking in the depth they showed from barrel. Perhaps I caught the wines at an awkward stage, or maybe these wines needed to be bottled earlier. Regardless of the technical details, the 2014s are simply less exciting than they were last year.

I remember visiting Paitin in the middle of the summer in 2014. At the time, brothers Giovanni and Silvano Pasquero were worried 2014 could turn out to be another 2002. Luckily, that did not turn out to be the case, as the weather stabilized towards the end of summer and into fall, with an end of season characterized by the wide diurnal shifts that are so favorable for Nebbiolo. Poor weather and small berries are two of the reasons yields are down considerably in 2014, but the wines have turned out well. Currently, the estate intends to bottle its entire range of Barbarescos, including the flagship Vecchie Vigne. The bottled 2013s have turned out well. The vintage was defined by a late harvest, but the shorter growing season may have been less than optimal. One of the changes at Paitin is that Dante Scaglione is no longer involved as a consultant, which is a shame, as his impact upon arriving was both immediate and significant.