2013 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin

I remember visiting Paitin in the middle of the summer in 2014. At the time, brothers Giovanni and Silvano Pasquero were worried 2014 could turn out to be another 2002. Luckily, that did not turn out to be the case, as the weather stabilized towards the end of summer and into fall, with an end of season characterized by the wide diurnal shifts that are so favorable for Nebbiolo. Poor weather and small berries are two of the reasons yields are down considerably in 2014, but the wines have turned out well. Currently, the estate intends to bottle its entire range of Barbarescos, including the flagship Vecchie Vigne. The bottled 2013s have turned out well. The vintage was defined by a late harvest, but the shorter growing season may have been less than optimal. One of the changes at Paitin is that Dante Scaglione is no longer involved as a consultant, which is a shame, as his impact upon arriving was both immediate and significant.

Paitin's 2012 and 2013 Barbarescos are terrific. The 2013s are brisk and energetic, which is to say very much in the style of the year. In addition to the two wines reviewed here, Paitin will also release a Riserva, which I did not taste, as it had been racked just prior to my visit. The 2012s show the personality of a year with warmer than average temperatures and a cool end of season. Paitin did not bottle their top of the line Vecchie Vigne, but chose to use that wine to improve the quality of their Sorì Paitin. The estate's Barbaresco Serra remains one of the most gracious, open-knit Barbarescos for near-term drinking. It's great to see the Pasquero-Elias back at the top of their game.