2005 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin

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Paitin is another estate in Barbaresco that has undergone an important stylistic shift since these wines were made. Tasting the 2005s and 2004s is like stepping back into the past. At the time, the wines were fermented in rotary tanks for a relatively short nine days or so and aged mostly in new oak of various formats

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Giovanni Pasquero-Elia considers 2004 to be similar to 2001, but then went on to describe '01 as a warmer year and earlier harvest that produced wines with somewhat less phenolic maturity and thus more aggressive tannins. "The summer of 2004 was perfect," he told me, "and better than 2005, when a hot, dry July caused some vine stress in some spots. For sure, 2004, 2001 and 1999 are the best recent vintages here. " Giovanni works with his brother Silvano, who is more directly involved with the winemaking. He explained recent changes in winemaking here: "My father [Secondo] always liked rotofermenters, and when my brother and I started in 1997 we did a five-day fermentation. But now we ferment at a lower temperature and it takes eight or nine days. " There's no post-fermentation maceration or pre-fermentation cold soak for nebbiolo here. Giovanni and Silvano were unhappy with the typical quality of the barriques they were receiving ("the wrong toast or green wood elements," noted Giovanni), and, after aging their Barbarescos in 20% to 30% new barrels from 1985 through 2001, have stopped using new barriques and are making more use of Slovenian oak casks. This allows for a slower evolution of the wines, which they prefer to see. Incidentally, this estate ships a good 60% of its production to the U. S. (Numerous importers, including Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ and The Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA)

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