2016 Barbaresco Cole

Like many estates in Barbaresco, Moccagatta endured a tough year in 2017. Hail and frost were big challenges, especially in Basarin, Cottà and Cars (Bric Balin). Unrelenting warm and dry weather led to the latest harvest on record. Moccagatta did not bottle their Barbaresco Basarin at all, opting instead to put the small amount of fruit that was salvaged into the Langhe Nebbiolo. Overall, the lower parts of the slopes did best because of slightly cooler temperatures and greater access to water. In tasting, the 2017s are lighter than normal and come across as not fully developed, which is the result of fruit that was not fully ripe. The 2016 Barbarescos, on the other hand, are every bit as compelling as they were last year.

Sergio and Martina Minuto told me that the pushed the 2016 harvest back by two weeks because the grapes held on to their acidities longer than originally envisioned. Moccaggatta is one of the Barbaresco estates where the 2016s are marked by both higher ripeness and higher acids than the 2015s, which makes for a fascinating comparison between the two years. The 2016s saw 14-15 months (a bit less for the straight Barbaresco) in French oak prior to being bottled. I also had a chance to revisit the 2015s. Those wines showed pretty much as they did last year. Moccagatta remains a relatively under the radar estate in Barbaresco. The wines consistently deliver the goods and offer terrific quality for the money.