2014 Barbaresco Cole

Moccagatta is one of the most consistent and reliable producers in Barbaresco. The Minuto family turns out attractive, supple wines that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. Now with some bottle age, the 2014 Barbarescos are just as impressive as they were last year, although the wines have clenched up a bit in bottle. The 2015s are also quite attractive, but they lack the sheer thrill factor of the 2014s. In 2014, the harvest started at the end of September and finished on October 6, whereas in 2015, all the Nebbiolo was picked over just two days at the end of September because yields were down significantly.

Moccagatta has been on a roll of late. For some reason, this small, family-run estate doesn't seem to get a lot of attention in some circles. Perhaps the house style is a bit out of favor these days. The Moccagatta Barbarescos are made with an approach that was once defined as modern, but today, 30 years after darker, richer wines started to come into favor, I am not sure 'modern' is the right term. In any event, Sergio Minuto, and his daughter, Martina, excel with bold, racy Barbarescos that capture the essence of their vineyard sites in the town of Barbarescos. Yields were off by a whopping 60% in 2014 which resulted in unusually deep, powerful Barbarescos. The 2014 Nebbiolo harvest took place between October 4 and 8, a bit earlier (and somewhat uncharacteristic for the region) than 2013, when the Nebbiolos were brought in between October 12 and 15. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s, which are just as compelling as they were last year. It's pretty tough to beat Moccagatta for quality and value these days.