2010 Barbaresco Cole
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(A Marc de Grazia selection, www.marcdegrazia.com; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com and Estate Wines Ltd., www.estatewinesltd.com)
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2016 - 2030
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Moccagatta's 2010 Barbarescos are just as fabulous today as they were last year, even if they have begun to shut down in bottle. The 2011s, from a much earlier harvest, could not be more different in style. That year the harvest was very early, even more so than in 2007. The wines are dark, voluptuous and intense, with tons of early appeal, but naturally less of the energy of the 2010. Both vintages will provide Moccagatta fans with considerable pleasure. Today, the Moccagatta Barbarescos spend about 18 months in French oak barrels, about 50% new. These beautiful Barbarescos are among my favorite wines in their respective price ranges.
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2020 - 2030
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This is a solid set of wines from Moccagatta, a producer who doesn't seem to get enough attention these days. Moccagatta's Barbareschi have the virtue of being accessible young, but also developing nicely in bottle. The 2009s are quite open and pleasing. They don't have a ton of color, even within the standards of Nebbiolo, and frankly I am not sure how they will age. I say that with full knowledge the estate's wines traditionally have aged well and that Nebbiolo, when it surprises, usually does so on the side of longevity. The 2010 Barbareschi had just been bottled at the time of my visit. There is plenty to look forward to with that vintage as well. In fact, those wines are shaping up to be gems.
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