2013 Barbaresco Cole

Moccagatta has been on a roll of late. For some reason, this small, family-run estate doesn't seem to get a lot of attention in some circles. Perhaps the house style is a bit out of favor these days. The Moccagatta Barbarescos are made with an approach that was once defined as modern, but today, 30 years after darker, richer wines started to come into favor, I am not sure 'modern' is the right term. In any event, Sergio Minuto, and his daughter, Martina, excel with bold, racy Barbarescos that capture the essence of their vineyard sites in the town of Barbarescos. Yields were off by a whopping 60% in 2014 which resulted in unusually deep, powerful Barbarescos. The 2014 Nebbiolo harvest took place between October 4 and 8, a bit earlier (and somewhat uncharacteristic for the region) than 2013, when the Nebbiolos were brought in between October 12 and 15. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s, which are just as compelling as they were last year. It's pretty tough to beat Moccagatta for quality and value these days.

Readers will find much to like in these 2013 and 2012 Barbarescos from Moccagatta. Two thousand thirteen was a late harvest here, as it was throughout the region. Harvest started on September 23 for the whites, which is the same date the harvest ended in 2011. The 2013s are aromatic, layered and vibrant, while the 2012s are much riper and fruit-driven in style. Although the Bric Balin and Cole are the flagships, readers should also be on the lookout for the straight Barbaresco, a wine that delivers terrific quality for the money. In terms of winemaking, not much has changed here in recent years. The Barbarescos see about a week on the skins, malolactic fermentation in steel and aging in French oak barrels. Stylistically, the Moccagatta Barbarescos are distinguished by their supple, forward personalities, with the exception of the Cole, which is always a virile, imposing wine.