2006 Outsider

Matt Trevisan, who bears a strong resemblance to the Zohan, was in the final stages of finishing his stunning new winery, which is a far cry from the bare-bones shed he has called home until now. His work space will be significantly increased and "there will be less acrobatics," which is no small consideration given the number of separate cuvees that he juggles to make his range of blended wines. Recent vintages here have shown more polish and precision than earlier years, with finer tannins and greater fruit purity. "I'm getting the hang of what I want, I guess, if you can ever really say that you've got the hang of things," the laconic Trevisan told me. Blends and elevage are a moving target here, as Trevisan likes to let the grapes "decide what they'll become." He's especially fond of the structure that mourvedre contributes to his blends, and liberally sprinkles it throughout all of his wines.