2018 La Mondotte

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Stephan von Neipperg's 2018s show a very concerted move towards a style that favors more freshness and energy than in the past. That is especially evident in the top three wines - Clos de L'Oratoire, Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte, all of which show quite a bit more nuance than in the past. According to von Neipperg and Technical Director Gaëlle Barbereau a transition to sustainable farming aligns physiological and sugar ripeness more closely while encouraging earlier ripening at lower sugars overall, which, in turn, is preferred to conventional farming and treatments that can delay ripening while creating a gap between physiological and sugar ripeness. Another recent development is not adding SO2 during crush, which von Neipperg and Barbereau believe gives the wines more aromatic openness. The 2018s here are flat out exciting.

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