2009 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Erstes Gewachs

Throughout the 1990s this was one of the finest estates in the Rheingau. Rapid growth in vineyard size and two changes of cellar dampened my enthusiasm, but since Gunter Kunstler moved into the spacious quarters that were once occupied by the Hochheim sparkling wine company, he has again been firing on all cylinders. The 2007s were the harbingers of the long-awaited renaissance that has come to fruition with the outstanding 2009s. This is without doubt the finest collection this estate has bottled in a decade and marks its return to the Rheingau elite. Also recommended: 2009 Hochheimer Herrenberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2009 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Trocken Old Vines (87), 2009 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Kabinett Trocken (88), 2009 Hochheimer Holle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (88), 2009 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (89), 2009 Hochheimer Holle Sommerheil Riesling Erstes Gewachs (92), 2009 Kostheimer Weiss Erd Riesling Erstes Gewachs (92), 2009 Hochheimer Reichestal Riesling Kabinett (85), 2009 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spatlese (89), 2007 Hochheimer Reichestal Pinot Noir Erstes Gewachs (88). Other wines tasted: 2009 Riesling Trocken.