2006 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.