1997 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.