2006 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese

Those who have always loved drinking the refreshing kabinetts of Dr. Manfred Prum have been short-changed over the past two vintages. In 2005 he harvested nothing below the level of a fine spatlese; in 2006 it was all auslese and above. His clientele, of course, demands spatleses, but few of this year's offerings have the ethereal lightness that has always marked his style. Yes, they are serious wines, but with a richness not typical of this estate. That said, he bottled both a spatlese and an auslese that were among the absolute stars of the vintage-and there is some stickier stuff in his cellar that will only be shown at a later date. (Various importers, including Valckenberg International and Rudi Wiest) Also recommended: 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #20 (94), 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (93), 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (94; auction wine).