1997 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese
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The '97s I tasted with Manfred Prum, just an initial cross-section of the vintage, were all freshly bottled but not yet registered--and in any case I can never get A.P. numbers out of Prum for individual bottlings. I confronted him directly with this and, not surprisingly, he suggested that differences from one lot to another, other than those designated by the color or length of capsule of an Auslese, are unlikely to be as great as are differences in perception and in the way the same wine shows from one occasion to another. Says Prum: "I'm happy that '97 is so to speak a normal great vintage, after the acid extremes of '96. This year, the acidity is really well-integrated." In addition, Prum has slightly relaxed his views about CO2 retention, so that this '97 collection, while delightfully spritzy, is at times easier to taste young than typical earlier vintages.