2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese ***

With a total production of only around 20,000 bottles of year, and much of that auslese, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are little known, even in Germany. But the wealth of mature vintages still available at this estate attests to the fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years. For some, the style may appear old-fashioned in character, but each wine is beautifully expressive of its vineyard. (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL and Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Feinherb (86), 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (88).

I have often been critical of the quality here since Hans Leo Christoffel leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael from Monchhof, where the wines are now made. While the elder Christoffel is still "actively retired," as he describes it, the wines often lacked the depth and complexity that I had learned to expect from this estate. After two fine performances in 2005 and 2006, the current lot was again underwhelming. (Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (87), 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese ii (89). Also tasted: 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett.

With a total production of only around 20,000 bottles of year, and much of that auslese, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are little known, even in Germany. But the wealth of mature vintages still available at this estate attests to the fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years. For some, the style may appear old-fashioned in character, but each wine is beautifully expressive of its vineyard. (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL and Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Feinherb (86), 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (88).

With a total production of only around 20,000 bottles of year, and much of that auslese, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are little known, even in Germany. But the wealth of mature vintages still available at this estate attests to the fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years. For some, the style may appear old-fashioned in character, but each wine is beautifully expressive of its vineyard. (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL and Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Feinherb (86), 2007 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (88).