2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese ***

I have perhaps been overly critical of the changes that have taken place at this estate since Hans Leo Christoffel went into "active retirement" and leased his five acres of choice vineyards to Robert Eymael from Monchhof, where these wines are now made. Always elegant, they occasionally lacked the depth and complexity I expected from this estate. The past two years, however, have been sublime. Two thousand seven might well bring Christoffel back to the absolute forefront of what is produced on the Mosel. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (87+?), 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (88), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese * (90).

Karl-Josef Christoffel has made few mistakes over the past three vintages. Even in the otherwise difficult 2006 vintage, his wines are textbook examples of what great riesling can be. Each is typical of its vineyard character and, as mature vintages still available on the market attest, these wines age remarkably well. With a production of only 20,000 bottles a year, the wines are hard to find, but they are worth the effort. (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) Also recommended: 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese *** (90), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule *** (92), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Beerenauslese (91), 2006 Erdener Pralat Riesling Beerenauslese (91).

I have perhaps been overly critical of the changes that have taken place at this estate since Hans Leo Christoffel went into "active retirement" and leased his five acres of choice vineyards to Robert Eymael from Monchhof, where these wines are now made. Always elegant, they occasionally lacked the depth and complexity I expected from this estate. The past two years, however, have been sublime. Two thousand seven might well bring Christoffel back to the absolute forefront of what is produced on the Mosel. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (87+?), 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (88), 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese * (90).