2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese ***

In 2001 Hans Leo Christoffel, now almost 70, leased his five acres of top-notch vineyards to Robert Eymael.The wines are still vinified and marketed separately, but the administration and sales are handled exclusively by Eymael's Monchhof estate.Although Christoffel is still in what he refers to as active retirement, it is unclear how long his success story of the '90s will continue unabated.The 2004s were quite austere when I tasted them but will probably put on flesh as they mature and may well turn out better than rated here.(Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein (87).

This less known Christoffel estate run by Karl-Josef Christoffel has always owned parcels of the finest vineyards in Urzig and Erden, with some additional choice sites from the former Prum holdings in Wehlen and Graach brought in by marriage in the 1950s.Fermentation here is very traditional, making use of only natural yeasts and large oak casks, and bottling occurs late.The result is a range of wines that are extremely expressive of their vineyard character.Fortunately for collectors, this estate still has numerous wines from older vintages available for sale at very moderate prices.(ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL) Also recommended: 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (86).

In 2001 Hans Leo Christoffel, now almost 70, leased his five acres of top-notch vineyards to Robert Eymael.The wines are still vinified and marketed separately, but the administration and sales are handled exclusively by Eymael's Monchhof estate.Although Christoffel is still in what he refers to as active retirement, it is unclear how long his success story of the '90s will continue unabated.The 2004s were quite austere when I tasted them but will probably put on flesh as they mature and may well turn out better than rated here.(Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein (87).

In 2001 Hans Leo Christoffel, now almost 70, leased his five acres of top-notch vineyards to Robert Eymael.The wines are still vinified and marketed separately, but the administration and sales are handled exclusively by Eymael's Monchhof estate.Although Christoffel is still in what he refers to as active retirement, it is unclear how long his success story of the '90s will continue unabated.The 2004s were quite austere when I tasted them but will probably put on flesh as they mature and may well turn out better than rated here.(Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein (87).