2011 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru

Julien Brocard's wines tend toward the richer end of the spectrum for Chablis. Some of the wines are now done entirely in oak, including the Butteaux, Fourchaume and Vaulorent, while others are aged partly in oak and partly in steel including the Bougros and Preuses. I tasted mostly 2011s during my most recent visit, as the 2012s were still unsettled, with a few notable exceptions. The 2011s will offer fine drinking pretty much right out of the gate. Brocard credits biodynamic farming for keeping yields in check, and unlike most of his colleagues, reported very little variance between 2011 and 2012.

Julien Brocard was not prepared to show more than a couple of his 2012 but I tasted a solid line-up of 2011s, which have turned out well.Brocard described 2011 as a generous year, with yields typically in the 50 to 55 hectoliters-per-hectare range:"Not too ripe, not too high in acidity, not especially powerful or fleshy, but nicely balanced and elegant.They are wines of seduction that should be accessible in their youth."Except for the Montmains, which was bottled last September, the 2011s were bottled during the first three months of 2013.Brocard feels that by doing a longer elevage (now 12 to 16 months), he's getting more energy in the family's wines. Also recommended:2011 Chablis Domaine Sainte-Claire (85).(Importers include Verity Wine Partners, www.veritywines.com and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com)