2004 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru
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.The Brocards harvested during the first half of October in 2004, holding out for better ripeness and getting good minerality.Potential alcohols were in the 11% to 12.5% range, with the estate's fruit from their oldest vines highest in sugar.According to Julien Brocard, the family pressed with very soft pressure in order to extract a minimum of vegetal character.They also did a longer settling of the must than in most years.Paterfamilias Jean-Marc Brocard described the 2004s as "elegant in style but a bit timid today, unlike the '03s."The Brocards offer an extensive array of Chablis bottlings, and took over Domaine Azo with the 2004 vintage.This year I also tasted their "sensations collection" (Sensuel, Mineral and Extreme), premier cru blends designed to showcase very different sectors and soils of Chablis.While I understand what the family is trying to accomplish with these wines, I wonder if these additional bottlings simply confuse consumers who already have many, many wines to choose from at this address.